Simple Seeds: Sowing Satisfaction
During the long, cold Chicago winter, gardeners spend many hours pouring through seed catalogs, searching for the new and exciting and dreaming of spring. Seeds are a wonderful way to add variety to the garden, and growing them can be easy, fun, and extremely satisfying.
Seeds can be divided into two categories: those that need to be started indoors because they are heat-loving or slow growing, and those that can be sown directly in the place they are to grow. The sowing date relates directly to the last frost date--May 15-30 in this area. Generally, the seed packet will provide a wealth of information, including when to sow, expected germination percentage and time, and any special treatments that might be required.
Starting Seeds Inside
Those seeds that need to be started inside can be sown into flats, peat pots, or even egg cartons--any shallow container that provides drainage will do. Be sure that the containers are clean. Wash used containers in a solution of ten parts water to one part bleach to kill any pathogens that may be lurking on surfaces. Do not reuse peat pots.
Purchase a potting mix specially formulated for seedlings, or try mixing equal parts of sphagnum peat moss, vermiculite, and perlite. Because dry peat mix can be very hard to wet, it is best to add water to the mix before filling containers. Fill to a level of about 1/4" below the rim of the pot or flat, then distribute seeds evenly over the top of the mix, or use a ruler to create rows. Cover seeds lightly with sowing mix or vermiculite. Generally, the larger the seed, the more covering it will require. Some very small seeds such as begonias need light to germinate and do not need to be covered at all. Check the seed packet for information on specific seeds. Label pots, then water gently but thoroughly or place pots or flats on top of a water-filled tray to wick up moisture.
During the germination phase, it is critical that the mix be kept evenly moist. Cover containers with a piece of plastic to retain moisture and place in a warm area. Most seeds need a temperature of 70-75 degrees F. for the best germination. Remember to check daily for moisture. If condensation is forming under the plastic, the seeds are staying too wet and the plastic should temporarily be removed.
After germination, move the seeds to a sunny window or place under grow lights to prevent spindly growth. A temperature of 60 to 65 degrees F. is best at this time, and the top layer of soil should now be allowed to dry out between waterings.
The second set of leaves the seedlings puts out are true leaves. When these are produced it is time to thin or transplant the seedlings. This is also a good time to begin fertilizing with a balanced fertilizer--one with even proportions of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K)--at 1/4 the recommended strength every seven to ten days.
As the last frost date approaches, seedlings must be acclimated to the outdoors. This is called "hardening off." To do this, cut back a little more on the water and lower temperatures to about 60 degrees F., if possible, for about a week. Then put the seedlings outside for several hours a day, gradually increasing outside time over a period of four to five days. After all danger of frost has passed, plant out to their permanent garden location.
Starting Seeds Outside
First, check seed packets to see if the seeds can be planted before the last frost date. This can be done with some cool season crops such as peas and lettuce, but in many cases seeds should not be directly planted outdoors until all danger of frost has passed.
Next, prepare the soil. If the soil is not well-drained, work in organic matter such as mushroom compost or peat moss to a depth of about 12 inches. Before working the soil, be sure to test a handful of it for moisture. If it forms a sticky ball when picked up, it is too wet to work. Give it a few days to dry out.
After the soil is worked, rake it to a fine texture and water to a depth of 1 to 2 inches. Wait a day, then sow seed evenly over the surface and gently rake again to ensure contact with the soil. Label the seeded areas and gently water the seeds in, being careful not to wash them out of place. Keep newly sown areas evenly moist. If the weather gets too hot, seeds can be covered with a thin layer of straw or mulch to help retain moisture. Thin seedlings when they are 1 to 2 inches tall, or according to the directions on the seed packet. Keep the area weeded, and see that the young plants receive about an inch of water a week. When seedlings are approximately 4 inches tall, a balanced fertilizer can be applied according to the manufacturer’s directions.
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FLOWERS |
SOW IN/OUT |
COVER? |
COMMENTS |
|
Bachelor’s Buttons |
Sow in or out |
Yes |
Often self-sows in garden |
|
Columbine |
Sow in or out |
Yes |
Chill seed |
|
Cosmos |
Sow in or out |
Yes |
Often self-sows in garden |
|
Hyacinth Bean |
Sow in or out |
Yes |
Soak overnight |
|
Larkspur |
Sow in or out |
Yes |
Use fresh seed |
|
Marigold |
Sow in or out |
Lightly cover |
Very easy to grow |
|
Morning Glory |
Sow in or out |
Yes |
Nick with knife or file seed with nail file. For inside sowing use peat pots |
|
Nasturtium |
Sow in or out |
Yes |
Nick with knife or file seed with nail file. For inside sowing use peat pots |
|
Polka Dot Plant |
Sow in or out |
Lightly cover |
Can be sown anytime to produce houseplants |
|
Sunflower |
Sow in or out |
Yes |
For inside sowing use peat pots |
|
Tickseed (Coreopsis) |
Sow outside |
No |
Can be sown in spring or fall |
|
Zinnia |
Sow inside |
Yes |
Best sown into peat pots |
|
HERBS |
|||
|
Basil |
Sow in or out |
Lightly cover |
Acclimate to outdoors! |
|
Catnip |
Sow in or out |
Yes |
Can be sown in spring or fall |
|
VEGETABLES |
|||
|
Beans |
Sow outside |
Yes |
Sow after soil is warm |
|
Carrots |
Sow outside |
Very lightly cover |
Sow in early spring. Use sieve to lighly sift soil over seeds. |
|
Lettuce |
Sow outside |
Very lightly cover |
Sow in early spring when soil can be worked. Use sieve to lightly sift soil over seeds |
|
Peppers |
Sow inside |
Yes |
Long season crop |
|
Tomatoes |
Sow inside |
Yes |
Long season crop |
Date: November 24, 1997
Author: Maureen Safarik
Maureen Safarik is a Horticulturist at The Planter’s Palette